Losing weight in Korea

 

The Korean diet is SO healthy...not!

While on a bus the other day a friend and I started flipping through timehop and then through old photos on Facebook ("ohhhh my gosh BABY KATE!" was the reaction).  My birthday (coming up August 6th where I'll go from 27 Western age to 30 Korean age) is always a time of reflection on what I've accomplished, what I hope to accomplish, and how I'm looking and feeling.  This is a long post with tons of photos, ten years of nostalgia, and me still trying to figure out what hair colour I can stand long-term.  

To all my friends: there will never be a birthday where I don't want to feel young and ridiculous.  There will never be a day where pink dresses, wine through a straw, tiaras, and macarons are not of value.


When I told people I was moving to Korea most people were very excited for my new adventure and many wanted to tell me second-hand stories of friends (or friends of friends) who had done the same thing.  I was told stories of people coming back entirely fluent in Hangul, people coming back and leaving again, and people who just never came back at all.  I was told stories of people who started photos series of all the crazy "Konglish" (Korean + English) tee-shirts they had seen abroad.  I was also told many stories of people who had gone to Korea and dropped mad weight.  "The pounds just seemed to fall off" I was told.  I was skeptical, but at the same time hoped that I would also be able to enjoy the benefits of living on a Korean diet.

Keeping my weight in check has always been a struggle.  Growing up I lived in a fairly affluent neighbourhood with a variety of slim, pretty girls in Gap Kids clothes.  I was not one of those kids.  My Mom always let me have my own sense of style (which may have gone a little too far when I cut my own hair so it looked like "Jem" at 3 years old) and I enjoyed seeking out unknown designers as well as what I wasn't aware at the time was an entirely different echelon of fashion: Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, and Elie Tahari.  By the time I was 11 years old I was 5'8" tall (a height that hasn't changed to this day) and a women's size 6-8 (a size I wish had stood the test of time).  I was unhappy not fitting in at my elementary school and had been teased most of my life for big calves and my hips that came in early (hey boobs - I'm still waiting for you!).

Let's fast forward a few years to grade 12.  I was happy in high school - I went to a performing arts high school taking musical theatre so I got to sing, dance, and play a difference character every day.  It was rad.  I was getting exercise at school several times a week and with a gym membership my parents had got me (I was 17 and still holding onto baby weight - I think they knew what University had in store for me).

By frosh week, I was down to a weight that was heavy, but I'm a tall, muscular girl and I felt confident in my appearance.  I put on the freshman 15 in first year University and when I moved out of residence in 2nd year and got back to a gym routine many (but not all!) of the pounds fell off.  I was content enough, but still not thrilled.

 I made this face a LOT at UBC!

When I moved to Vancouver to go to UBC everything changed.  I was a residence adviser (so I lived back in res) and my cafeteria meal plan was completely different (I don't think Sodexho/ Queen's University has ever really heard of a proper salad regardless of the salad bar that was available).  I walked miles every day - circles around a giant, stunning campus with zillions of opportunities to walk, run, ride, dance, cheer (yes - I was a cheerleader and a sorority girl) climb, or rest enjoying a combination of mountain and sea air.  I was happy - really, really happy.  I almost immediately dropped about 25 lbs unexpectedly.  All of a sudden I was hot (this didn't exactly last, folks!) and people wanted to pay me to take my picture (the photos are out there on Google but I'm not going to share my professional vanity shots in this particular post).  I had a great wardrobe.  It was wonderful.  My ego was enormous.

I am my Father's daughter. I hope I still have the same smile and party attitude in x # of years...

My Mom still has a better body than I ever will - she's a fox.

When I started working full time I was the same weight but worked out harder (leaving my house at 5:45 AM so I could get a work out in before heading to the office).  I thought because I was sitting at a computer for 8 hours a day I was all of a sudden getting fat.  Regardless, people still took photos of me mid-bite and to this day I think they're cute.  Wouldn't catch me doing that now, though!

Eventually I did gain weight (and a lot of it!) because of my desk job, but that was in Toronto, not Vancouver.

I can tell you - this was not a look that floored Lupul.

                               

In Toronto I was unhappy.  I worked long hours and even after leaving the office I never really left my work behind as I had two cell phones (work and personal) and the work one never gave me any rest.  Working in hospitality management meant that sure - I got to work at 9 (well - usually earlier) to get the business, but was responsible late into the night for keeping the business happy, fed, and imbibing to increase liquor sales.  I was lonely because I didn't have time to make real friends the first couple of years (shout out to the amazing gal pals I did end up making!) and I ate poorly not just because it was there and convenient, but because it was a crutch.

What a difference...a month makes?

I think that I thought I would drop a pile of weight like I had in Vancouver upon my arrival in Korea, and in some ways I did.  I figured I would do a lot of hiking (the only temples with climbs have been 10-15 minutes max) and that the Korean diet would do magical, wonderful things to my figure.  I have lost weight.  When I came to Korea I snacked a lot, had a lot of chocolate from Canada with me, and was trying to be cheap so that I could stretch the money I brought with me until my first paycheque.  Pasta and LotteMart red "vodka" sauce, rice bowls, and peppers were my go-to diet.  I think I probably put on about ten pounds when I first arrived as I had no gym membership and was eating like garbage.  Don't fall into that trap!  Koreans are bringing in more and more western food and quite frankly it's cheap.  Just don't do it.

In chronological order from left to right... 

 The goal: my 2009 Kits Beach Body.

Since April 17th, 2015 (when I bought my scale) I've lost about 9 lbs.  Seeing as I joined a gym at the end of March and started using MyFitnessPal around then I think overall I've probably lost about 20 lbs since my heaviest.  I go to the gym 5 times a week and on a lazy day still manage to get in at least 30 minutes of cardio, plus 5 sets of abs and a target area for my weights.  On days I go hard (which are more often) I hit Eco-gym and get in 50-60 minutes of cardio plus another 30 minutes to an hour of abs and weights.  I aim to net around 1200 calories a day (ie. if I workout 700 calories you better believe I'm having some extra snacks) and aim for under 100 g of carbohydrates.  MyFitnessPal really helps to ensure I'm getting enough protein and fat to make my day effective.  I also enjoy walking and riding a bike through the Hwamyeong Eco Park.

                              January 2014                                                                                 June 2015

My best advice would be to get a calorie-counting app, go to the gym and work HARD as much as you can, and make sure to enjoy time out with your friends once a week - balance is key or you'll lose interest and fall off the wagon.

July 2015

The pizza here is great (Pizza Maru has green tea crust - I'm not cutting that out completely).  Don't overdo it on the soju (it puts me right to sleep) and splurge on a nice bottle of red every so often.  The best advice I've ever been given was to keep everything in moderation - even moderation.  My ultimate goal is to lose another 23 lbs, so I'm almost halfway there.  Leave a message in the comments if you plan on hitting the ground running on this awesome fitness journey!  I don't think anyone can call me "the incredible shrinking woman" (that's my sister's title after losing something ridiculous like 140 lbs!), but I'm well on my way...

Update: I've actually managed to lose quite a bit of weight here by keeping my diet in check and working out hard 4-5 times a week.  I also try to keep active on weekends by heading out to places that require a lot of walking.  The number of stairs in the subways also helps!  For breakfast, I mix Cellucor protein powder (120 calories and 25g of protein!) with water in a shaker bottle (all available at iHerb - click here for 10% off your first order!).  I have a 99 calorie granola bar as a snack, go through 3 - 4 L of water every day, have a turkey sub for lunch loaded with veggies and only the tiniest bit of mayo or mustard, and for dinner I usually make some combination of a protein (one of chicken, ground beef, eggs, bacon, or cheese), squash, peppers, and salad.  On the weekends I allow myself to go out with friends and enjoy a nice meal.  Once you shift your perspective from short term restriction to a long-term habit of fueling your body, making healthy choices is a lot easier!

Moving to Korea? 12 tidbits to consider...

Over two years ago I considered teaching abroad in either Korea or China, but I chickened out.  After moving from Vancouver to Toronto the thought of packing my life into two suitcases and selling the rest just seemed too far-fetched, and having gone through the process of getting transcripts and copies of a degree notarized for a friend already teaching in Korea I just felt...too lazy.  Now I feel incredibly stupid for not just getting it together and going.  Now that I'm here there are a variety of reasons why I want to stay, and a variety of common misconceptions about moving to Korea I want to dispel. 

1. Korea is "Asia-light" - Truth!

Living in Korea (at least in Busan) is a lot like living in Vancouver, Canada where I spent 5 years of my life finishing up my degree and working downtown.  Throughout the week I spend my days working and my evenings at the gym.  I usually pick up a Kimbap (Korean-style "sushi") or Mandu (a tasty kimchi or meat-filled dumpling) on my way home.  It's cheaper than the subway sandwich or sushi I would get in Toronto, and during the week I tend to keep it simple so I can make the most of my weekends.  Of course, from time to time I'll head out throughout the week for a couple of socials or a night of trivia, but realistically I'm usually in bed at a pretty reasonable hour throughout the week.  On weekends?  I head out shopping, or to a club with friends, to a temple, or to the beach.  Having the beach and the mountains so close is just like being in Vancouver, and I'm thrilled to be able to swim in April!

2. Too much paperwork - myth

Getting your documents together is a pain, but it's not all that difficult.  I had to get my fingerprints done through the RCMP (I'm Canadian) and a criminal background check.  I also had to get copies of my degree notarized and several copies of my sealed transcripts sent.  There were different sized passport photos to get, and a couple of trips to the consulate to make, but I had planned months in advance so while it was fairly time-consuming it wasn't all that difficult.  My best advise is to plan so that you're not in a mad rush to get your paperwork together.  I was working a full-time job that actually had me working really long hours at the time and I still managed to get it all together.  Just start - once you've begun the process you will be invested and won't turn back.  You will need to get a health check up when you arrive in Korea and that will require more paperwork and more photos to get your ARC (Alien Registration Card - your key to multiple visits in and out of Korea).


3. Pack well - Truth!

This year winter fell right into summer (just as it seems to have in Toronto).  Many websites specify that there are four distinct seasons, but so far I've gone through winter (no snow, but holy cow was it ever cold), to diving into the water at the beach to cool off (let's be candid - the first time was in April and the water certainly wasn't warm, but it was refreshing!).  Koreans are pretty modest about their chest regions, so make sure to bring clothes you can layer as in the morning and at night it can be pretty cold but you'll find yourself sweating up a storm midday.  For the curvy girls and tall guys you WILL be able to shop in Korea.  There are a couple of H&M and Zara locations in Busan, and they have Forever 21 in Seoul as well.  I'm able to fit into Korean shirts and skirts but haven't tried pants anywhere other than western stores.  BRING SHOES - if you have above size 7.5 feet you'll have difficulty buying shoes (again - unless you visit the western chains).  Also I find that people here tend to have incredibly fashionable outfits that they pair with running shoes.  I don't understand it, but that'll give you an idea of most of the shoes that are sold here.  If you enjoy a cute pair of heels then bring them - although they might get ruined on the uneven sidewalks...

 - a shirt from my trip to Nampo.

 - my shoe closet.

3. Dining Experiences will be limited and I'll have to sit on the floor - myth

Um...NOPE!  There are TONS of different styles of food here, and I'm pretty sure I haven't eaten kimchi in at least 2 weeks (well other than the cooked kimchi in my mandu).  I have been to a vegetarian restaurant, several Italian restaurants, a cocktail bar with "Mexican" food, and yes - tons of Korean restaurants which can mean BBQ, fine dining, Makgeolli bars for pajeon, lunch box stops, and so much more.  Korean food is not limited to pork, rice, and kimchi - I promise.  I have yet to sit on the floor in a restaurant.  It's been offered at a couple of places but usually we sit at a table.  Oh, and you'll get good at using your chopsticks - promise.

4. Koreans don't speak English - half truth

Well you're in Korea, a KOREAN-speaking country, so you should probably learn enough Hangul to at least get by.  I learned how to read the alphabet before my arrival (it's incredibly straight-forward) , but it's only since actually being here that I've noticed how many English words are actually just written out in Korean, and which words I need to order food, take a taxi, get directions, etc.  You'll meet a ton of Foreigners here and the Koreans with whom you strike up friendships will likely be the ones who have studied at English Academies (or other teachers!) or who have studied at the English Universities.  If you do know key Korean words you can freak out your students when they're being bad by telling them to stop/ don't do that in Korean (HA-JI-MA) or asking for their homework but adding "Chuseyo" ("Give it to me" - ie. "Please").  I don't imagine that I'll ever have really good conversational Korean, but I haven't had a real moment of panic quite yet without it.

5. Don't work at a Hagwon - myth

There are many horror stories about living and working in Korea, but once I settled in in Busan I have to say I've been really happy.  I have many friends who work in the public school system and teach 15 classes a week but have to stay at their desk when they're not teaching.  They have a standard 8-4 or 9-5 and I believe get paid less than Private English Academy workers do.  I technically work longer hours (some days I start at 10 some days at 12:45 but I usually finish up around 7:30) but I have many breaks where I can go home and make lunch (I live half a block from work) or go to the gym, or read/ take a nap.  There's a beautiful park near where I live too so sometimes I hang out there.  I block out a couple of days a month to get my lesson plans done, and my colleagues are always there to help me as well.  I was nervous that I would be a bad teacher, but for the most part you can use your textbook as a guide and create fun activities to confirm your students knowledge.

6. Pack your own toothpaste, deodorant, and tampons - TRUTH!

I haven't really looked for deodorant or tampons (I brought 5 sticks and 200 tampons) yet, but I know that the toothpaste is a little sweeter and doesn't contain fluoride.  Just make it easy on yourself and stock up before coming.  I brought the little ob brand and just packed them in ziplock bags stuffed in my shoes.  It's not a lot of extra weight and you'll feel more comfortable having your own brands.  Bring some power adapters as well.  It's also worth bringing a couple of towels and your comforter from home.

7. Birth Control Pills are available over the counter in Korea - Truth!

I wasn't able to get Yasmin, of course, but I got a similar combination of hormones.  I don't feel any difference in my personality and haven't noticed any changes in my body because of the pill.  It'll cost you about $10/ pack and because it's over the counter it doesn't fall into the category of prescription medication covered by National Health Insurance, but it's not stressful to get at all, which helps.

 - buying BCP was as easy as getting the Korean equivalent of Coldfx.

8. Dating in Korea is a nightmare for Foreign Women - Myth!

Sure, there are a ton of foreign guys who come to Korea intent on securing a hot Korean girlfriend, but unless you're in a very rural area or somewhere without foreigners you'll have a fine time meeting people.  I've read about foreign women being really lonely because they Korean guys and Foreign guys all want Korean women, but I can pretty much guarantee that if you're in a city you'll find all sorts of people with all sorts of "types".  The great thing about dating foreigners here is that you all share a bit of a bond with other teachers, all teachers have at least a Bachelor's degree, and most foreigners here have a bit of a sexy sense of adventure and taste for new things which makes going on dates really exciting.  Careful about telling your Korean friends though - once you've been on ONE date with someone the general consensus is that they are now your significant other!

9. Your apartment will be a tiny box - half truth

I've seen some horribly small apartments here and some massive ones.  Mine could comfortably fit a king size bed (note: I have a single) and a couch (note: I have a loveseat), but my floors just got redone, I have TONS of storage, the wallpaper is fresh, and my bathroom is pretty massive.  I've seen some very small apartments as you get closer to the city centre, but most of those have double beds and frankly I'd rather be downtown and have a nice sized bed!  My life here is pretty comfortable - sometimes I consider getting a bigger bed but I'd rather spend the money on a trip (it's incredibly cheap to travel).  Perhaps I'll get a foam topper at some point but for now? Nah...

10. The cost of living is really low in Korea - myth!

In comparison to life back in Canada certain things are quite cheap, but if you want fruit, vegetables, meat, or peanut butter be prepared to shell out.  I tend to live on peppers, eggs, mixed greens, cabbage, bananas, and avocados.  Wine and Spirits are more expensive than back home, but beer, soju, and makgeolli are very cheap.  I can go get a healthy kimbap for about $5 Canadian, or a Korean fast food lunch box for about $4 Canadian (definitely cheaper than back home).  Ultimately it's been nearly 2 months and I haven't saved anything, but I also haven't been skimping on good times.  Once I'm through my first 4 months and am no longer paying my deposit on my apartment I'll be able to send a little bit more home.  If you're a bottle blonde consider heading back to your roots.  Getting your hair bleached properly in Korea will cost you megabucks - they wanted to charge me nearly $400 to get mine dyed, although I have heard of people spending $300 or as little as $125.  Not worth it for me.  Either invest in sending yourself some Revlon highlighting kits before leaving or head back to brunette.  I would also advise waiting until you get your ARC to get a phone.  The arrival store will cost you over $80 each month to rent a phone and the plan.  My phone costs me $45/ month and I got a brand new Samsung Galaxy Grand Max.

11. When handing something/ accepting something always use two hands - half truth.

When you hand money to a sales associate at a shop they'll generally be a little taken aback at a foreigner being so polite.  Do it anyway, and smile a lot.  If you don't have your Korean down then it's best to overcompensate with politeness!  Most places will just hand you your change with one hand though.



12. The Korean transportation systems are amazing - TRUTH!

Don't be afraid to get on an intercity bus and just GO!  The systems are a great way to check out temples, neighbouring cities, etc. and the HU-Metro system is really well laid out.  Make sure not to sit in the sections designated for ajummas and adeshis unless you feel like getting reamed out by everyone on board young and old alike!  Ajummas WILL push you out of their way even if there is plenty of room to go around - this happens in the streets as well.  People have this bizarre tendency to stand really close to you.  Just move if you're uncomfortable, but know that it will likely happen again.

So there you have it, friends!  The first of what will most certainly be a growing list of truths and myths.  Anything to add?  Leave me a note in the comments!