Missing comforts of home in Korea

Here's another one I've already read about in a ton of blogs: around the 3 month mark of your time in Korea you'll really start missing the comforts of home.  It's my own fault.  I should have sent myself a care package.  I should have learned more Korean.  I should have brought a friend or boyfriend with me.  I should suck it up and deal with it.  This one gets a little sappy - be forewarned that I'm not actually upset just went down a rabbit hole of memories.  I'm missing the comforts of home.

Most of these have to do with food (and the "Canadian" foods I miss), so if you're hungry then this might not be the time.

1. I can't place a proper order.

I don't speak Korean.  I can get by at lunchbox places (Hansot) and Kimbap (Kim Seon Saeng), I can terrify my students by telling them to STOP IT, or that I don't understand, or that I know they're talking about me in Korean (Way-goo-gin Seon-Saeng-Nim - literally Foreigner Teacher) - seriously they are so impressed when I say ANYTHING in Korean at all.  It's amazing!  Restaurant staff on the other hand?  They either make fun of me (I pointed at pictures on the Hansot Menu my first week before practicing the Korean from the menu and trying my luck - it was only when I spoke Hangul that they started chirping me!) or they get irritated and I end up having to pull out the translator on my phone or simply leave because they make no attempt to help me understand.  I know it's my own fault.  It's not easy.  When I was in Europe I could kind of figure it out having studied French, Italian, German, and Spanish, but this is an entirely different ballgame.

(Photo c/o Crayon Pop - go check it out!)

2. Cheetos and Doritos are a lie and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

The Cheetos here are either sweet BBQ flavoured, honey butter, or tomato and onion.  They lack the bite that proper CHEESE Cheetos should have.  I found some cheese puffs/ balls that are supposed to be camembert-flavoured.  Also a lie.  The flavours are muted and sometimes when I just want a savoury snack I am SOL.

 <-- If you want Doritos then get these instead!

The Doritos here are Sweet Ranch flavoured, or mild cheese flavour, or a bomb of different heats including the overwhelming taste of wasabi.  There are a couple of others but realistically the actual chip just tastes like they're gluten-free - you know...like cardboard with powder on it.

3. Koreans think foreigners can't handle the heat.

When I order something spicy I get raised eyebrows and sauce on the side.  Usually it's just a sweet sauce without much kick.  I bought jalapenos, hot salsa, Louisiana Hot Sauce, tons of chili flakes and decided to cook my spicy goodness at home.  Jin Ramen (HOT) ain't got a thing on this gal.

4. EVERYTHING is sweet.
The chips...they're sweet.  The bread...it's sweet.  The meat...is sweet.  The cheese...is sweet.  The pizza...is sweet.  I just want something salty and delicious.  Please guys.  I'm begging you - make something basic and savoury.

5. If you're not in a couple or a party then you're not enjoying a restaurant meal.  

Korean food is designed for sharing.  I'm dying to go to many of the awesome-looking Korean BBQ spots a block away from my place.  I saw a chef carving beef today and want to go to there ASAP but if your crew wants to get dukgalbi then that's where you're going.  If they want pork? Then group consensus wins.  If you're alone?  No dice - you're sad and there's nothing here for you.  Go to Lotteria or head home and get McDelivery (which I have now set up and ordered from twice - danger, danger).  I miss having my close-knit gal pals from Toronto who were always down to try anything once if good food, good wine, or a good story was involved.

6. I miss the International Foods available in my hometown of Toronto.

I want real pizza (not a crepe topped with "cheese" - the cheese here is not the kind of quality we get back home).  I miss good quality cheese (and wine, and champagne!).  I want tortellini.  There is Indian food here but man, is it ever far from Hwamyeong.  I want sushi - tonight I went to the local sushi restaurant and was told that all they served was sashimi and croquettes.  I want Thai food and only know of one Pan-Asian "Fusion" spot in Seomyeon to get my curry on.  I want to order chicken and not have to pay $18 for a box of chicken that could feed a large family but will go bad by morning.  I miss order-it and just-eat.  I don't want to talk to anyone I just want to order my multicultural food from the comfort of my bed in my jammies and have nobody question my decisions or get confused.

Most of all I miss having 3 incredible chefs and their teams cooking for me and explaining each individual ingredient with great detail (and then encouraging hefty bourbon shots).  I miss my mornings with Des and Kat with real talk (and unreal scrambled eggs), Julian's creations surprising me at every turn (don't get me started on the mushroom poutine - I could go for poutine right now too...), Ryan's counter culture and supportive spirit (that goes for Rob too), and my afternoons with Sandy Sanderson and AR (I wasn't talking to you).  Man, I miss you all and your incredible passion and zest for life.

7. The owner of my gym treats me differently than the 3 Korean referrals I brought in who all signed up as members.

I have a real problem with this one.  My Korean friends paid the same as I did for the gym but they get access to lockers as well.  I was never told about the gym clothes as well but I've gone ahead and started using them.  When my colleague referred her friend she got a free month.  I brought in another friend less than a week later and all of a sudden the promotion was over and no dice for me (this was the 5th friend I had referred, and yes - he was well aware).

8.  Give me a good salad that won't cost me $10 (or more like $16).  I miss Quesada and Fresh.  Just give me some mixed greens, some veggies, and a protein and I'm happy.  Add cheese?  Thrilled.

9.  BACON - give me real bacon...please.  STEAK - I want a decent piece of meat that hasn't been cut with scissors right on the grill.  Ps. The above photos are from Rose and Sons.  Go there now.

I really just want the comforts of home.  Meeting a Korean who can speak even the tiniest bit of English makes me over the moon.  I found some no name nacho chips that have the crunch-factor I was looking for in the Doritos.  I miss real bacon.  I miss being able to buy meat at the grocery store without giving up my weekend party budget (meat here is PRICY - you're better off eating at a restaurant as it's actually cheaper).  I miss my Queen-sized bed.  Heck - I miss my Double bed from University.  Sleeping on an old single bed is doing my back no good.  I miss buying furniture and being able to hire a delivery service to get it home.  My apartment is not a reflection of me in the slightest as the walls are completely bare and the couch is...well...that's another story that probably won't be posted here.  Let's just say it came from a stairwell and caused a lot of grief.

When I'm sick I want my Mom - she provides cuddles, Vick's vapo-rub, and the kind of concern a girl just needs when she's on her own halfway around the world.  Shout out to the God-fam for the support and love as well (my family is pretty great-looking, right?).  Truly, I miss joking around with my Mom and my Dad.  I miss our romps around Toronto when they would come in for Indian Buffet on King Street (shout out Agra - miss you guys) and a trip around the Eaton Centre.  I miss our laughs - it's not the same on Skype (thought I'm incredibly thankful for such a service).  I miss my parents' cooking.  They always come up with innovative dishes but also know when to make my old favourites (I could SO go for pesto chicken pasta or Dad's famous Caesar salad right now).  I don't have an oven or a blender - I'm just here chillin' with a hot plate.

Realistically I'll be here for the next 2 years so if anyone from Canada/ USA wants any Korean treats please suggest we become penpals - I will send it alllllllll as long as you promise to send me some comforts of home in return.

Moving to Korea? 12 tidbits to consider...

Over two years ago I considered teaching abroad in either Korea or China, but I chickened out.  After moving from Vancouver to Toronto the thought of packing my life into two suitcases and selling the rest just seemed too far-fetched, and having gone through the process of getting transcripts and copies of a degree notarized for a friend already teaching in Korea I just felt...too lazy.  Now I feel incredibly stupid for not just getting it together and going.  Now that I'm here there are a variety of reasons why I want to stay, and a variety of common misconceptions about moving to Korea I want to dispel. 

1. Korea is "Asia-light" - Truth!

Living in Korea (at least in Busan) is a lot like living in Vancouver, Canada where I spent 5 years of my life finishing up my degree and working downtown.  Throughout the week I spend my days working and my evenings at the gym.  I usually pick up a Kimbap (Korean-style "sushi") or Mandu (a tasty kimchi or meat-filled dumpling) on my way home.  It's cheaper than the subway sandwich or sushi I would get in Toronto, and during the week I tend to keep it simple so I can make the most of my weekends.  Of course, from time to time I'll head out throughout the week for a couple of socials or a night of trivia, but realistically I'm usually in bed at a pretty reasonable hour throughout the week.  On weekends?  I head out shopping, or to a club with friends, to a temple, or to the beach.  Having the beach and the mountains so close is just like being in Vancouver, and I'm thrilled to be able to swim in April!

2. Too much paperwork - myth

Getting your documents together is a pain, but it's not all that difficult.  I had to get my fingerprints done through the RCMP (I'm Canadian) and a criminal background check.  I also had to get copies of my degree notarized and several copies of my sealed transcripts sent.  There were different sized passport photos to get, and a couple of trips to the consulate to make, but I had planned months in advance so while it was fairly time-consuming it wasn't all that difficult.  My best advise is to plan so that you're not in a mad rush to get your paperwork together.  I was working a full-time job that actually had me working really long hours at the time and I still managed to get it all together.  Just start - once you've begun the process you will be invested and won't turn back.  You will need to get a health check up when you arrive in Korea and that will require more paperwork and more photos to get your ARC (Alien Registration Card - your key to multiple visits in and out of Korea).


3. Pack well - Truth!

This year winter fell right into summer (just as it seems to have in Toronto).  Many websites specify that there are four distinct seasons, but so far I've gone through winter (no snow, but holy cow was it ever cold), to diving into the water at the beach to cool off (let's be candid - the first time was in April and the water certainly wasn't warm, but it was refreshing!).  Koreans are pretty modest about their chest regions, so make sure to bring clothes you can layer as in the morning and at night it can be pretty cold but you'll find yourself sweating up a storm midday.  For the curvy girls and tall guys you WILL be able to shop in Korea.  There are a couple of H&M and Zara locations in Busan, and they have Forever 21 in Seoul as well.  I'm able to fit into Korean shirts and skirts but haven't tried pants anywhere other than western stores.  BRING SHOES - if you have above size 7.5 feet you'll have difficulty buying shoes (again - unless you visit the western chains).  Also I find that people here tend to have incredibly fashionable outfits that they pair with running shoes.  I don't understand it, but that'll give you an idea of most of the shoes that are sold here.  If you enjoy a cute pair of heels then bring them - although they might get ruined on the uneven sidewalks...

 - a shirt from my trip to Nampo.

 - my shoe closet.

3. Dining Experiences will be limited and I'll have to sit on the floor - myth

Um...NOPE!  There are TONS of different styles of food here, and I'm pretty sure I haven't eaten kimchi in at least 2 weeks (well other than the cooked kimchi in my mandu).  I have been to a vegetarian restaurant, several Italian restaurants, a cocktail bar with "Mexican" food, and yes - tons of Korean restaurants which can mean BBQ, fine dining, Makgeolli bars for pajeon, lunch box stops, and so much more.  Korean food is not limited to pork, rice, and kimchi - I promise.  I have yet to sit on the floor in a restaurant.  It's been offered at a couple of places but usually we sit at a table.  Oh, and you'll get good at using your chopsticks - promise.

4. Koreans don't speak English - half truth

Well you're in Korea, a KOREAN-speaking country, so you should probably learn enough Hangul to at least get by.  I learned how to read the alphabet before my arrival (it's incredibly straight-forward) , but it's only since actually being here that I've noticed how many English words are actually just written out in Korean, and which words I need to order food, take a taxi, get directions, etc.  You'll meet a ton of Foreigners here and the Koreans with whom you strike up friendships will likely be the ones who have studied at English Academies (or other teachers!) or who have studied at the English Universities.  If you do know key Korean words you can freak out your students when they're being bad by telling them to stop/ don't do that in Korean (HA-JI-MA) or asking for their homework but adding "Chuseyo" ("Give it to me" - ie. "Please").  I don't imagine that I'll ever have really good conversational Korean, but I haven't had a real moment of panic quite yet without it.

5. Don't work at a Hagwon - myth

There are many horror stories about living and working in Korea, but once I settled in in Busan I have to say I've been really happy.  I have many friends who work in the public school system and teach 15 classes a week but have to stay at their desk when they're not teaching.  They have a standard 8-4 or 9-5 and I believe get paid less than Private English Academy workers do.  I technically work longer hours (some days I start at 10 some days at 12:45 but I usually finish up around 7:30) but I have many breaks where I can go home and make lunch (I live half a block from work) or go to the gym, or read/ take a nap.  There's a beautiful park near where I live too so sometimes I hang out there.  I block out a couple of days a month to get my lesson plans done, and my colleagues are always there to help me as well.  I was nervous that I would be a bad teacher, but for the most part you can use your textbook as a guide and create fun activities to confirm your students knowledge.

6. Pack your own toothpaste, deodorant, and tampons - TRUTH!

I haven't really looked for deodorant or tampons (I brought 5 sticks and 200 tampons) yet, but I know that the toothpaste is a little sweeter and doesn't contain fluoride.  Just make it easy on yourself and stock up before coming.  I brought the little ob brand and just packed them in ziplock bags stuffed in my shoes.  It's not a lot of extra weight and you'll feel more comfortable having your own brands.  Bring some power adapters as well.  It's also worth bringing a couple of towels and your comforter from home.

7. Birth Control Pills are available over the counter in Korea - Truth!

I wasn't able to get Yasmin, of course, but I got a similar combination of hormones.  I don't feel any difference in my personality and haven't noticed any changes in my body because of the pill.  It'll cost you about $10/ pack and because it's over the counter it doesn't fall into the category of prescription medication covered by National Health Insurance, but it's not stressful to get at all, which helps.

 - buying BCP was as easy as getting the Korean equivalent of Coldfx.

8. Dating in Korea is a nightmare for Foreign Women - Myth!

Sure, there are a ton of foreign guys who come to Korea intent on securing a hot Korean girlfriend, but unless you're in a very rural area or somewhere without foreigners you'll have a fine time meeting people.  I've read about foreign women being really lonely because they Korean guys and Foreign guys all want Korean women, but I can pretty much guarantee that if you're in a city you'll find all sorts of people with all sorts of "types".  The great thing about dating foreigners here is that you all share a bit of a bond with other teachers, all teachers have at least a Bachelor's degree, and most foreigners here have a bit of a sexy sense of adventure and taste for new things which makes going on dates really exciting.  Careful about telling your Korean friends though - once you've been on ONE date with someone the general consensus is that they are now your significant other!

9. Your apartment will be a tiny box - half truth

I've seen some horribly small apartments here and some massive ones.  Mine could comfortably fit a king size bed (note: I have a single) and a couch (note: I have a loveseat), but my floors just got redone, I have TONS of storage, the wallpaper is fresh, and my bathroom is pretty massive.  I've seen some very small apartments as you get closer to the city centre, but most of those have double beds and frankly I'd rather be downtown and have a nice sized bed!  My life here is pretty comfortable - sometimes I consider getting a bigger bed but I'd rather spend the money on a trip (it's incredibly cheap to travel).  Perhaps I'll get a foam topper at some point but for now? Nah...

10. The cost of living is really low in Korea - myth!

In comparison to life back in Canada certain things are quite cheap, but if you want fruit, vegetables, meat, or peanut butter be prepared to shell out.  I tend to live on peppers, eggs, mixed greens, cabbage, bananas, and avocados.  Wine and Spirits are more expensive than back home, but beer, soju, and makgeolli are very cheap.  I can go get a healthy kimbap for about $5 Canadian, or a Korean fast food lunch box for about $4 Canadian (definitely cheaper than back home).  Ultimately it's been nearly 2 months and I haven't saved anything, but I also haven't been skimping on good times.  Once I'm through my first 4 months and am no longer paying my deposit on my apartment I'll be able to send a little bit more home.  If you're a bottle blonde consider heading back to your roots.  Getting your hair bleached properly in Korea will cost you megabucks - they wanted to charge me nearly $400 to get mine dyed, although I have heard of people spending $300 or as little as $125.  Not worth it for me.  Either invest in sending yourself some Revlon highlighting kits before leaving or head back to brunette.  I would also advise waiting until you get your ARC to get a phone.  The arrival store will cost you over $80 each month to rent a phone and the plan.  My phone costs me $45/ month and I got a brand new Samsung Galaxy Grand Max.

11. When handing something/ accepting something always use two hands - half truth.

When you hand money to a sales associate at a shop they'll generally be a little taken aback at a foreigner being so polite.  Do it anyway, and smile a lot.  If you don't have your Korean down then it's best to overcompensate with politeness!  Most places will just hand you your change with one hand though.



12. The Korean transportation systems are amazing - TRUTH!

Don't be afraid to get on an intercity bus and just GO!  The systems are a great way to check out temples, neighbouring cities, etc. and the HU-Metro system is really well laid out.  Make sure not to sit in the sections designated for ajummas and adeshis unless you feel like getting reamed out by everyone on board young and old alike!  Ajummas WILL push you out of their way even if there is plenty of room to go around - this happens in the streets as well.  People have this bizarre tendency to stand really close to you.  Just move if you're uncomfortable, but know that it will likely happen again.

So there you have it, friends!  The first of what will most certainly be a growing list of truths and myths.  Anything to add?  Leave me a note in the comments!

How do you Sunday Funday?

I've been staying in on Saturday nights to take full advantage of Sunday mornings and it's been paying off.  The past couple of Sundays have been pretty spectacular.  Great friends, great food, lots of walking - just a grand ol' time before heading back to work on Monday (let's be candid - my job is great and I don't start work until 12 PM Noon so every weekend feels a little longer than back home!).

Last weekend I was going to go to Jinhae for the Cherry Blossom Festival but the weather wasn't great (it ended up raining) and the air quality was giving me a headache.  The bus to Jinhae would have been nearly an hour after a 20 minute subway ride and I just wasn't ready for that.

 

After wandering around trying to find a salad bar (not quite as advertised - it ended up actually being a Vietnamese Hot Pot restaurant), we went over to an Italian spot that advertised several salads and thin crust pizza.  I've found that most of my friends and I have similar tastes so we can usually split a couple of interesting dishes and be reeeeaaaaallly happy!

The spicy garlic chicken pizza at Pasta Vanita was actually quite spicy (and I put chili flakes on everything).  The salad hit the spot with a lovely balsamic dressing and thinly sliced apples.

We found a pretty rad little arcade with mini-norebang rooms.  The Paradise Coaster was a pretty epic 4D Dinosaur experience (and we got to wear pretty spectacular and fashion-forward glasses).

We topped the evening off with my absolute favourite food I've had in Korea: Chicken from Monster Craft Brewing!  The above image is a half portion...can you believe it?  We also found some adorable calico kittens that reminded me of my childhood pet, Angel.

This weekend's Sunday Funday we ventured out into Gwangan (Gwangali Beach).  I discovered a place with fantastic margaritas, tasty tacos, and a wicked patio called "Fuzzy Navel".  Apparently there are a few different bar. restaurant concepts under the Fuzzy Navel Company, and I got myself a membership card because I have a Korean phone number now and I'm allowed to do stuff.  Wa-hoooo!

Gwangali Beach is the ultimate mix of Wasaga Beach, Vancouver vibes, the concentrated area of bars in Miami, and Korean spots.  There are also a ton of Sushi restaurants I'm dying to try.  Summer here is going to be unreal.

My lime Margarita was tasty and I ordered the breakfast tacos (that were supposed to have eggs on them I'm pretty sure, but avocado and bacon made me pretty happy).

We were told that Beached Bar had a wicked view so that's where we headed next.  Mark and Craig were great hosts and it was cool to talk about some of their experiences in Korea as well as back home in Manchester and Christchurch, respectively.  The vibe was really cool, the music spot on, and the company fantastic.  Then came the Marmite...

We were still a bit hungry after the tacos so K had my fries and I had an interesting skewer of really awesome sausage (not Korean "hot dog" sausage), a couple of potatoes, chicken tenders, tomato (yummm), and mushrooms (double yummmm).  We'll certainly be back to Beached Bar for some sporting events (and Australia Day...next...year...).

I discovered the panorama setting on my phone so just get excited for some pictures of the water, okay?

We walked down to the seawall and all the way around and back up to KSU enjoying some of the last buds on the trees this time of year.

We were really jonesing for some Indian food but were unable to find it (if you know where to get Indian food in KSU please let me know in the comments!).  We decided to take a chance on a little nook near the KSU subway station and it did not disappoint.  Our Pumpkin Cream Cheese Pizza had the perfect amount of crust, some really nice seeds and slivered almonds, and was a good size to share.  at KRW 14,000 it was really good value.  We'll certainly be back to "Man in the Kitchen" soon for its great atmosphere and delicious pizza.  Take a closer look at the kitchen in the photos and you'll see the Chefs being adorable and posing!